The Red Chair Diaries at the Tidewater Inn - III

Dear Diary,

Thursday, October 11, 2012:

    Oh what a beautiful morning! Oh what a beautiful day! ... just want to start out singing today. It's all blue skies and sunshine!

    Here I am at the Tidewater Inn for another fun day of adventures and surprises along the CT shoreline. It's so nice here that I sometimes have to pinch myself to be sure I'm not dreaming ... it's all real.


Cousin Scarlet and Me

    And here's my first surprise of the day - my cousin Scarlet's here too! She came out front here for some morning sunshine before breakfast too. We have lots to share and catch up on. I haven't seen her in who knows how long. We decided to have a nice long chat. I invited her to join us for today's touring, but she already had plans for the day. She and I will have stories to tell each other this evening over wine and cheese.


Barrels and Barrels of Wine

    Before coming to the Tidewater Inn I had enjoyed a few days at the Fitch Claremont Vineyard BandB in Bozrah CT. It's a working vineyard, and it was time to bring in the harvest and crush the grapes. It was hard work but lots of fun too. So, Victoria thought I might like to see the end result of such labor. To do this we visited the nearby Chamard Vineyards, less than 10 minutes drive from the Tidewater Inn, in Clinton CT.

Wine Cellar

      Chamard Vineyards grow several white and red varieties of grapes and produce fine white and red varietal and blended wines. So delicious that they are served daily at the Tidewater Inn for wine and cheese time. At the vineyards we were able to go into the barrels rooms where the wine was lovingly cared for and watched over by the wine maker until it was just the right time to bottle it and release it for us all to enjoy.  The bottled wine was carefully stored in their wine cellar. Here's a photo of me taking it all in. I wanted to taste some, but they wouldn't let me ... no I.D. handy to prove I was of age. Can you imagine! They said I looked far too young to be drinking wine.    

     We returned to the inn for a light lunch and then went in search of dessert. This girl knows her way around the foodies scene on the shoreline and she drove us straight to Sugar Bakery in East Haven - winners of the Food Network's Cupcake Wars!


Cupcake Champs!

     Wow! I never saw so many delicious looking treats in one place at one time! I had a tough time choosing and finally settled on three: Red Velvet, of course (need I say more?), Toasted Almond, and Chocolate Fudge (I asked for the cupcake that tasted the chocolatiest. This is supposed to be it.). I couldn't wait to take my first bites of these wonderful confections. Going to have to take a few long walks after this to burn off the calories, but it's all worth it.

    I found out that they even have a cupcake truck, so you don't have to go to the bakery to buy your favorite treat. If you follow them on facebook you can just check to see where the truck will be on any day. Now isn't that so nice of them to bring the treats out to us?


Bird Houses at Meigs Point

     OK, I said we had to walk some of those calories off, so now we're at Hammonasset Beach State Park, and specifically at the Meigs Point Nature Center. I'm especially interested in why this is such a popular spot for birding. It turns out that this part of the CT shoreline is on the North Atlantic migration path, and the park is an ideal location and stopping point for migrating birds. Including the migrating birds and those that make this spot their home there are hundreds of species that can be seen and identified here throughout the year, and Spring and Fall are the most popular times with new species coming and going every day.

     Walking past the Butterfly Garden, behind the nature center, we saw bird houses mounted way up high on poles. Hospitality for feathered friends, they could be called B and B's for birds!

Seashells Sculpture

     Around the corner I spied the biggest Conch shell I had ever seen. I wandered over to look and realized I'd been fooled. It wasn't real. It was part of an outdoor sea shell sculpture exhibit. Don't I look nice standing there among the shells?


Amazing Driftwood Tree

     We're by the sea, at the beach . How can we not go and take a walk along the shore? It's an irresistible draw, walking on the beach, and at this state park there are over 2 miles of seashore to enjoy.

     Over here at the East end, by Meigs Point, there is a huge piece of driftwood. Look! It's almost twice as tall as I am. I am fascinated. It was the better part of a whole tree, and I am at the roots end. It's got lots of character. Victoria showed me her photos of it from last Spring. It was much more whole and has weathered and deteriorated much over the summer. I wonder if the nature center would ever take it inside to preserve it for future generations to see and appreciate?


Hugs from my Apple Tree

      Autumn is happening along the shoreline. Trees won't be turning to their finest colors here until the end of the month, and that's when the leaf peeping will be best, but right now the apple trees are heavy laden with ripe fruit ready for picking. We went to Bishops Orchards in Guilford and right away I found this tree that was almost more red than green with all the hundreds (had to be hundreds at least) of apples on its branches. Look at the photo and you'll see that those apples were jumping right into my lap, begging to be picked and later enjoyed.

These particular apples are the Stayman variety. We asked about them and found out that they have a thick skin, are sweet-tart and crisp, and great for baking. When we returned to the inn we peeled and cut one for a taste. Delicious! I'd never heard of them before, but now I like these just as much as my favorites, the Macoun's.


Hiding in the Hay

    There's lots of fun to get ourselves into at Bishops, and I couldn't resist playing hide and go seek among the hay bales. Problem: with my bright red color I stick out like a sore thumb!


Can you see me now?

     Ok, so then I thought I'd hide among all the crazy, colorful, bumpy gourds - the pumpkin's exotic cousins.  Seems that now I'm too tall and still easy to find. Oh well. I should have tried to hide in the Corn Maze. Next time, just you wait! I think I'll just go to the pumpkin patch and wait for the Great Pumpkin.



The perfect pumpkin patch

    Wow! I made it. I found the perfect pumpkin patch. Surely this is where the Great Pumpkin will rise this year!  Look at all of those pumpkins! Big, little, round, short, tall, but all of them a bright and deep orange. I wonder how they tell each other apart. Maybe the Great Pumpkin is already here ... Hmmm. I'd better look more closely.



A closer look

      The late afternoon sunshine was gilding everything with a warm, golden glow. Even me! And then the shadows came softly. It was time to move on, but not before taking a moment to stop by a "picture spot" to create a memory.

Apple of her eye



        I tried to put my face in the opening. I sure did look funny. In the end I decided it would make a better memory with the pumpkins in the face opening and me by its side.  Victoria says I'm still the Apple of her eye.

     As we were in Guilford, we decided to make one last stop before going home. We didn't want to miss The Old Stone House -- The Henry Whitfield State Museum. 



Henry Whitfield House

      The Rev. Henry Whitfield's family home, built in 1639, is Connecticut's oldest house and New England's oldest stone house. Built with a steeply pitched roof, casement windows and thick and sturdy stone walls, it served as a fort for the community. All this, and more details and history are on their web site, just saying. In case you want to know more.

 

     Of course, there's nothing like being there to see for yourself. We arrived just after the museum had closed for the day but enjoyed looking at the Old Stone House and the beautiful grounds.

 

Getting Acquainted

     I stepped up to the door and stayed awhile to get acquainted. This Old Stone House has stories to tell, and I wanted to hear them all. And what a great contrast between this, the oldest stone house in New England, and Gillette Castle, built three centuries later, that we saw yesterday. Both were built from the stones of their land, but look how they are so entirely different from each other - like night and day. I find it fascinating to have seen them both within 24 hours.

Intimate Chat

     Speaking of architectural contrasts, just down the street from the Old Stone House, right in the same historic neighborhood, is a condominium structure that looks like it could be part of the fleet of the Starship Enterprise. (Who of you reading this can remember that?) Perched high on a hill, designed and built in the late 1980's by an architect known for his Modernist style, to take full advantage of shore, salt marsh, and ocean views (now partially blocked by grown trees, alas), it looks like a space station about to take off.  "Everyone asks me about that," the Old Stone House told me quietly. "What is it? Who allowed it? It sticks out like a sore thumb. ... These are the comments we hear all the time."

   "Yes, it's clearly a different architectural style than the rest of the neighborhood," the Old Stone House reflected, but reminded me that when the Rev. Henry Whitfield's house was built in 1639 it too was the odd structure in the neighborhood. Both buildings have stood the test of time, along with many others of various architectural styles that also call this historic neighborhood and shoreline town home.

There's something about a New
England Stone Wall

     Stone walls are iconic to New England, and Connecticut has more than its share of them. There is a certain romance and attraction connected with these old dry-built stone walls. They, too, have stood the test of time.  I find the ones at the Old Stone House property absolutely irresistable.  Warmed by the rays of the late afternoon sunshine, I sat in the elongated shadows by the side of this wall and listened to see if I could hear it tell its tales of all who jumped over it, sat by it, climbed it, built it, shaped it, walked along it ...



A peaceful ending to
a perfect day



     As the sunlight became more golden and the shadows grew long and tall under the wide-spread branches of this majestic tree it was time to turn toward home after another delightful and inciteful day along the CT shoreline.  It's amazing how much we've covered, how much we've experienced, and how much we've seen.

   I'm told that tomorrow we'll explore the center of Madison itself, home of my host, the Tidewater Inn. I may be tired now, but already I'm anticipating another exciting day. I wonder what the dinner plans are for tonight? .... Hmmmm ...

The Red Chair Diaries at the Tidewater Inn - II cont'd.

Dear Diary,

Wednesday, October 10, 2012 - Part 2:

    I was about to tell you about the Wee Faerie Village at the Florence Griswold Museum. Various artists, I think around 30 of them, have created miniature works of art in and among the gardens and throughout the entire museum property. They are creations that depict subjects of nature that are found in landscape paintings such as those by the artists of the Lyme Art Colony who lived and painted there.

   Look at how tiny they are and how big I am. I felt like a giant next to these faerie dwellings.  The detail is amazing.

  The Wee Faerie Village first appeared in 2009, and has returned each Autumn ever since.

   The museum property is along the bank of the Lieutenant River, and this bucolic landscape was a favored subject of all of the Lyme Art Colony artists. When you walk beyond the gallery buildings toward the river you suddenly have a feeling of deja vu. You've been here before. You're sure of it, when, actually, you've seen this vista time and time again in painting after painting.

    Look! I'm sitting in a famous landscape! Wheeeee. Paint me! Paint me!












   Speaking of rivers, we've now got to cross the CT river from Chester to Hadlyme to go over to see Gillette Castle. We're going on a little ferry as CT Rte 148 crosses the river that way. It's a hard-working ferry and gets very upset when I call it "Cute." ... but it is!
 

   Once across I rested on the far bank of the river and watched the ferry as it faithfully returned to Chester with another load of travelers like me.  It was so peaceful there that I decided to stay awhile.

 Gillette Castle sits at the top of a cliff along the CT river, right above where I had stopped to rest. The views of the river from up there are indescribable. I've got to show you. Here, look at these:

 

    Gillette Castle is nothing like the castles of Europe or of fairy tale imaginings. It is built out of the fieldstones from its land, and on its web site it's callled a midieval fortress.

     Personally, I think it's the quintessential and ultimate man cave. Designed singularly for his own enjoyment by William Gillette, an actor best known for the role of Sherlock Holmes, it lacks for nothing and is a witness to his creativity and genius. On my next visit to this part of CT I hope to get to see the inside too. Right now I've had to be satisfied with Victoria's first hand and enthusiastic descriptions.

    I decided to put my feet up and rest awhile just out just outside the conservatory. Looking in the window panes I could see the indoor water feature that would keep the humidity just right for the plants that grew there.

 

     I was finally able to tear myself away from the wonderful views of the river and the amazing architecture and structure of the castle to look around and appreciate some of the other picturesque and interesting stonework in gateways, bridges, fences and archways.  Victoria had me pose in various "picture spots." I just enjoyed and marveled at all the stonework and wondered at the ingenuity that went into it all.

          These pots of begonias were put here just for me. Right? And just look at this magnificent archway! Doesn't it draw you to walk through it to see what's beyond?

     Driving out of the park we saw the lily pond and a few trees showing a bit of their Autumn colors.  The foliage display is just beginning here on the shoreline. I've been told the peak is usually around the end of October and the beginning of November just along the shoreline and long after inland trees have shed their leaves.

 
 This looks like something the impressionist artists of the Lyme Art Colony would have painted, doesn't it? I wonder if they wandered over here to paint. It's near enough for it to be possible.

Ah, well. Took a few moments to relax and enjoy the lily pond up close before returning to the Tidewater Inn for the day, tired but happy. It's been a full day, and I've got lots of somethings to write home about.

The Red Chair Diaries at the Tidewater Inn - II

 Dear Diary,

Wednesday, October 10, 2012 - Part 1:

     What a full day! I never knew you could do so very much in so very little time. I'm guessing it's because everything's so nearby and easy to get to. Victoria had made a list of places and things she thought I'd like to see and do. We took off right after enjoying an amazingly delicious breakfast. I met some other guests this morning, and they made me promise to come back tonight to tell them all about my adventures.

     I've been hearing about a CT lobster roll - warm lobster chunks and butter stuffed into a split-top toasted hot-dog bun or a toasted burger bun. All the best of a lobster without the work, and oh so tasty! No mayo or chilled lobster here. On the CT shore an authentic lobster roll is warm, toasty and buttery. One of the best places to get one is at Lobster Landing in Clinton. Situated waterside, the lobster practically jumps out of the water and onto your plate. It was too early for lunch, so this was just a picture stop. This place is so cute! You can be sure I'm going to enjoy one of those lobster rolls before my visit here is over though.



Blending in ...



     We continued on our way, destination Essex, when we went on a bunny trail to the Pink Sleigh, a Christmas shop in Westbrook and right on our way. We had a mission: find a pickle ornament to give as a memento of her stay at the Tidewater Inn to a guest from Germany. Now you know I couldn't just stay in the car and wait. Out I jumped and went inside to see what this shop was all about. Lo and behold, I felt right at home! Red is so my color, as you can see, and I could blend right in. "Looking Good," I thought. Don't you agree?



The Turtle - 1st Submarine



     That done, we continued on to the CT River Museum in Essex. Here I was so surprised to see, and sit inside of (!), the Turtle, the world's first ever submarine. Ok, it's not the real one, but a life-size reproduction, and cut away so that kids of all ages, like me, can sit inside and try out some of the controls.



     What's also amazing to me is that just 20 minutes east on I-95, in Groton CT, you can go and see the world's first Nuclear submarine, the Nautilus! We didn't get to go there this time, but I've put it on my list of what to do when I come back some day. Then I want to see both of these on the same day. That's going to be awesome!

Old Lyme Ice Cream Shopp

 

"Carpe Cre'em"



   Ok, by now we were hungry for some lunch, and we were on our way to Old Lyme for our next adventure. It was just natural to stop at the Old Lyme Ice Cream Shoppe. Oh, don't worry, we had something healthy before indulging in their wonderful home-made ice cream. Actually, it was the best, most bacon-filled BLT ever! Victoria encouraged me to try a new ice cream flavor, new for me anyway - Morrocan Delight. Sooooo Goooood ... Dates, pistachios, orange rind, other good stuff, honey perhaps?

   So far the theme of the day has been cute, cute, cute. Irresistible. Just had to show you this pic. Ice Cream Cone made of pavers too!


    Just up the street is the Florence Griswold Museum, home of American Impressionism. I couldn't wait to see the Florence Griswold House, where the artists lived, and just for fun, perhaps to pass the time, they painted on the wooden door and wall panels of the first floor. Can you imagine that! All of these now famous artists leaving behind a legacy of their work for all of us to enjoy. Here I am in two photos in the dining room where most of the work is found.

     There are beautifully planted perrenial and rose gardens around the Florence Griswold House and around the museum gallery building, and this time of year, as the foliage gives way to the soil the Wee Faerie Village comes alive and visible.

    I'll tell you more about the Wee Faerie Village and the rest of my day's adventures in part 2 of Day 2, Wednesday, October 10, 2012.

The Red Chair Diaries at the Tidewater Inn

Dear Diary,

Tuesday, October 9, 2012:
     I am a humble wooden chair that's happy to be painted a bright and cheery red. I've led a quiet but interesting life in Woods Hole on Cape Cod until this year, when everything changed. My friend, Beth, took my picture and posted it on Facebook. Since then I have become very popular and have been invited to stay at inn after inn after inn, first all over Cape Cod, and now throughout New England. At each inn I am welcomed with open arms and treated like visiting royalty. It's amazing! Innkeepers love to show me the sights, and locals look at me as if I was a celebrity. How did I ever come to deserve all this? 

    Want to know where I've been and where I'm going? Look at my personal web site, RedChairTravels.com for all the details. Travel along with me vicariously.

Warren and Nora



     Today I begin my sojourn at the Tidewater Inn, a bed and breakfast inn in Madison CT, in the heart of the CT shoreline. Really. Look at a map. Madison's right in the center. Warren and Nora Strong brought me here after including me in on their harvest activities at their Fitch Clairmont Vineyard bed and breakfast in Bozrah CT. Reluctantly Nora handed me over to Victoria this afternoon, and off Warren and Nora went to find lunch.

The Hand-Off

    Now Victoria didn't waste any time. Giving me a welcome hug, she said "I know you come from Cape Cod and you've been all over the cape and explored all of its shores. You've seen plenty of sea, sand and sky, lighhouses, boats, and everything that floats. Madison's on the shoreline too, but there's more to the CT shoreline than sea, sand and sunshine. Although you can be sure we have plenty of those too, there's so much more to see and do here."

     Immediately after a warm welcome and a few hugs she whisked me off to our fist adventure - The Shoreline Trolley Museum. John Soehnlein greeted us, and Sarah from VisitNewHaven joined us for a tour of the museum where John explained and demonstrated the inner workings of a trolley and how it is powered.  Then it was "all aboard" for a trolley ride into the Branford salt marshes and Stony Creek.


All Aboard!



Waiting for the Trolley


  Waiting for the trolley's like waiting for a train. Looking forward to a fun ride.

   On board at last. Whew! That's a tall step up!

   Our trolley's a fine mid-20th-century reproduction of an earlier vintage.  The Shoreline Trolley Museum maintains nearly 100 vintage cars, lovingly cared for and restored by over 100 dedicated volunteers.


Settling in for the ride

    Settled in and looking all around. What beautiful woodwork and reupholstered rattan bench seats. The bench backs swing forward and aft for passengers to be able to change direction and always face forward as the trolley direction reverses to return to the station.


Riding Along in Style

     I had a front-row spot as we rode along the track, through salt marsh, toward the Stony Creek end of the line.
   
   Along the way John stopped the trolley and brought me down to the front, on the track, so that I could get a "Trolley's Eye" view ... to see the track the way the trolley did. 

A "Trolley's Eye" View

   A bit later John brought me out again to show me how to read the track-side signals.  Red means "don't go there." The track is occupied by another trolley.
 

Learning to Read the Signal


  Back at the Sprague station it was time to say farewell to our trolley. Sarah couldn't resist. She just "Had to sit on it!" ... meaning me, the Red Chair, of course.

Gotta Try This!

   It's been quite a day. I'm looking forward to a good night's rest at the Tidewater Inn and a yummy breakfast to start the next day. I wonder what's in store for me then?